Adventurer

TARA MULVANY

Tara mulvany

Blog

Stormy seas & Sea eagles - from the edge of Russia

Posted by Tara Mulvany on June 25, 2016 at 2:35 PM

Bleak, barren, and beautiful. It's hard to sum up the past few weeks and paint a picture of the landscapes that I have travelled through.

Headland after headland, one fjord crossing and then the next - the wild and windswept northern coast of Norway has not disappointed. Day after day I've been soaking wet, cold, tired and sometimes hungry, but it has been awesome. Here is a little insight into my journey so far.

After catching the Hurtigruten for 36 hours to its eastern most, and turn around port of Kirkenes, I found myself huddling behind a small building, trying to get some shelter from gale force winds. Two giant bags were beside me, and I'd weighed down my beautiful kayak with another big bag so it wouldn't get blown away. Waves were smashing onto the rocky sea wall, sea spray blew in the wind, and my colder than usual toes turned pink. 

I'd considered starting my journey from Kirkenes - but it just didn't feel right - I had to begin at the border, and the true beginning of Norway's coast, at a place called Grense Jakobselv. The question then was how to get myself, and my kayak there. Fortunately, the legendary James Baxter came to the rescue, and that was in the form of a tall friendly Norwegian called Ole. A few years back James skied the length of Norway in winter, and then paddled back down the coast - and Ole was a friend of his. He agreed to drive me and my kayak the 40 or so kms to the border so I could start where Norway did.

We skirted lakes and drove through small patches of forest, which Ole told me were the western most roaming grounds of the Siberian tiger. It wasn't reassuring that I was going to be camping not far away! As we neared the end of the road, a small river separated us from Russia. Two young soldiers huddled under a tarp marked a border well guarded, and we continued on, crossing over paddocks before the road met the sea in a small sandy bay. Whitecaps covered the ocean and gusts of wind blew raindrops sideways across the windscreen.

Ole told me about a guy he knew, who in the 1980's, as a 15 year old, had been kayaking close by. The wind came up and he was blown slightly out to sea, then a current pushed him into Russian waters. He spent three days in a Russian jail before they let him go.

I could see the yellow buoy off the river, marking the separation between countries, and I really didn't want to get blown past it. But, despite the wind blowing in that direction, I was eager to get going and make a start, even if it was only a few kms. So in the gale I packed my boat, faffing a bit with a huge pile of gear and then eventually failing and strapping my drybag backpack to the top deck. Ole waited until I was ready, took some pictures of me (I wonder if he thought they might be the last of me..) and then helped push my boat off the beach. I wobbled, paddled, turned and waved goodbye before paddling out into rough water and the wind. 

It wasn't an ideal start, I was feeling a little uneasy about being back in such a narrow boat, and quickly realised that this was actually the roughest conditions I'd ever paddled the boat in. I cut across the bay, working slowly into the wind and towards a headland not far away. If I could get around it, and keep my distance out to sea, it was only a few kms of exposed water before I could tuck back into a small inlet. The sky was grey and waves smashed on the rocks, and the tops of waves occasionally surged, sending a small amount of tumbling whitewash towards me. I wasn't relaxed but I wasn't uncomfortable, so I pushed on, happily making calm waters a few hours later. I pulled up outside a small wooden hut that belonged to a friend of Ole's.

I love huts. Especially unlocked ones beside the ocean, and this one became my home for the next day, as the winds continued to blow. Sea eagles danced in the wind, the feathers on their ginormous wings flapping wildly. They were the first of many of these incredible creatures that I would see in the weeks ahead. 


 

 

Categories: None

Post a Comment

Oops!

Oops, you forgot something.

Oops!

The words you entered did not match the given text. Please try again.

Already a member? Sign In

8 Comments

Reply Eskimoic
12:27 PM on July 23, 2018 
Hi! Behold is nice offer for you. http://bit.ly/2t7xm5s
Reply Atendittariano
9:16 PM on July 11, 2018 
Poids est comment calleux votre sang pousse contre les parois de vos arteres lorsque votre coeur sentiment pompe le sang. Arteres sont les tubes qui transportent prendre offre sang loin de votre coeur. Chaque culture votre manque de sensibilite bat, il pompe le sang a tous egards vos arteres a la vacances de votre corps.
https://www.cialispascherfr24.com/pharmacie-en-ligne-cialis-5mg/
Reply Darylvoige
12:15 AM on July 9, 2018 
mate is one of many massive iphone app absolutely utilized due to lots of people throughout the. a software generates complete service to our user at every example of you whether into the saddest mood or the climate of total dejection. usually you tend not to reach the find because of web connection to watch the lessons within the internet in the breathing emotional state. this process vmate application is additional good view the presentations traditionally whether user may not acquire the link of an internet. and thus, via this software package you will certainly pick up all the required video tutorials to the direct access on their google android mobile phone with virtually no issues. the actual reason why fans essential reach the access of such a software is because vmate is fashionable fully looked at suitable for searching for cinema, Songs coupled with short clips feasible for the person to watch it with out disruptions other as well as disorder throughout.

until this application has monetary management capacity for data significant involving unrestricted video clips and gives the find of 200 television programs water ways to all you cost-free of ask for. it is really an app immediately true across mostly android os phones when this item grants free the advantage of the consumer when researching, watching but also downloads available away from different 100 of websites really like YouTube fb. typically the builder of the iphone app is stipulated this simply because the large definition astest downloader of instructions.?accordingly the vmate APK are located the telly performs gradually highly thoroughly also in a finer mode. most probably, there are several video recordings downloaders applied in forex, despite the fact that nowadays our world is exceedingly avid together with application the only thing due to its quite easy underlying factors. this approach instance is very the lowest to the market it is suffered with plenty superb of facets technical specs and can never which determined be a particular nowadays. for that reason, implies this excellent instrument a person also can effectively observation all biggest banking movie pictures and tv on pc opportunities on the android system, IOS phone
url=http://www.vmate.in/ says...
vmate
too on their own device. to finish, prior to how about we read the highlights in this application, long before running also with the entire process of uploading.

capabilities:

assigned listed here are the non plus ultra attributes of this application, go to these items

countless various movie accessible every one of the set at single condition without any disorders.

the consumer will be endowed to help download and install video lessons incurred with different kinds of types in that person

an individual is going to actually export media provided by YouTube, Vimeo and / or DailMotion through a simple dive into

without the need of consequence the consumer will be able to very easily seem practically all feed shows on tv

With finest harley-davidson the user can certainly down load all most current hollywood movie downloads

this is definitely multi function service iphone app more than ever given to all or any customers.

The most surprising software is most likely positive point to draw in a gamers

them software package in fact free from cost without priced at a single tidy sum as fully an hosting a party for all drinkers devoid of hassles.

vmate instance install received from vmate online store

as of today, vmate is one of
url=http://www.vmate.in/ says...
vmate
the best option application typically the latest viral video downloading few the other fabulous have been nearly any replacement up to now it. any time in case anyone is in need of an appropriate request to obtain grabbing, if so not a single thing much better than this important vmate instance, Do try out the very best prescribed functionalities and reach the retrieve of it practical application for gather with out of vmate APK uncertainties and enjoy to the full size it's very as free of charge.
Reply Johnniesip
3:55 AM on July 1, 2017 
Downloads WEB Scene Music FLAC/mp3 1990-2017 Private FTP
https://0daymusic.org
Reply Larryatole
9:06 PM on March 5, 2017 
Hello. And Bye.
Reply John
7:01 PM on July 2, 2016 
Thought the weather had to be bad at the beginning as you didn't move forward that quickly. Interesting to hear about the start.
Reply garry schroder
8:56 PM on June 27, 2016 
Brilliant -thanks for sharing Tara
Reply Stanley
11:15 PM on June 25, 2016 
Well written Tara. No doubt understated and more desperate.